Then slowly, carefully peel the transfer off the enclosure.
As long as most of the detail you want is present in the transfer, consider it a success!
Then it’s time to break out the paint brush and model enamel. Carefully paint in any missing areas, making sure no metal is showing through. I use a combination of a paint pen and model enamel to fix errors.
It might look like I painted over most of the PNP w/ black, but that would be insanely tedious and render a transfer pretty much moot. The PnP dries and cools a much darker blue (this is due to the black toner beneath it), and you can see the spots of flat-black (enamel) versus the sheen of the PnP in the image below. The idea is to touch up spots (such as in the lower arrows) and cover larger areas (to the right of the upper-arrow) with an extra coating to ensure an even etch.
Set aside overnight to ensure there’s no wet paint underneath the top layer. Once it’s dry, it will be time to finally etch.
If you have any confusion over the longer parts of this step, feel free to leave a comment or contact me through the site. This is where most people give up before they even begin, but I assure you that it’s not as complicated as it might sound. Good luck!
Coming next: Etching




Hey Preston,
January 15, 2010 @ 6:54 AMThanks for answering my question on part one. Here is one for this part of the procedure. Instead of making a photocopy of the graphic, could the Press N Peel be run (and printed) through a laser printer instead (assuming you have one)? Isn’t the toner the same (or similar) to a photocopy? This would save a step, and be a bit more acurate.
Thanks again for this.