December 24th, 2009

Etching 101 – Graphic transfer & Touch-up

Then slowly, carefully peel the transfer off the enclosure.


It's best to lift straight up as you go.

It's best to lift straight up as you go.

As long as most of the detail you want is present in the transfer, consider it a success!

Most of these errors can be fixed with enamel

Most of these errors can be fixed with enamel

Then it’s time to break out the paint brush and model enamel. Carefully paint in any missing areas, making sure no metal is showing through. I use a combination of a paint pen and model enamel to fix errors.

It might look like I painted over most of the PNP w/ black, but that would be insanely tedious and render a transfer pretty much moot. The PnP dries and cools a much darker blue (this is due to the black toner beneath it), and you can see the spots of flat-black (enamel) versus the sheen of the PnP in the image below. The idea is to touch up spots (such as in the lower arrows) and cover larger areas (to the right of the upper-arrow) with an extra coating to ensure an even etch.

Press N' Peel dries a dark blue. You can see the sheen of the PNP versus the flat-black of the enamel.

Press N' Peel dries a dark blue. You can see the sheen of the PNP versus the flat-black of the enamel. Click to enlarge.

Set aside overnight to ensure there’s no wet paint underneath the top layer. Once it’s dry, it will be time to finally etch.

Press N' Peel dries a dark blue. You can see the sheen of the PNP versus the flat-black of the enamel.

Yer done! Click to enlarge.

If you have any confusion over the longer parts of this step, feel free to leave a comment or contact me through the site. This is where most people give up before they even begin, but I assure you that it’s not as complicated as it might sound. Good luck!

Coming next: Etching

« Part 3

by Preston | Posted in TUTORIALS | 3 Comments » | Tags: ,


3 Comments »

Comment by Howard
  • Hey Preston,
    Thanks for answering my question on part one. Here is one for this part of the procedure. Instead of making a photocopy of the graphic, could the Press N Peel be run (and printed) through a laser printer instead (assuming you have one)? Isn’t the toner the same (or similar) to a photocopy? This would save a step, and be a bit more acurate.
    Thanks again for this.

    January 15, 2010 @ 6:54 AM
  • Comment by Chris
  • Hi!
    I realize you don’t update this place, but I still wanted to give it a shot….

    I took “the step” and ordered the stuff that is required for a PNP to etch-whatever. Great tutorial on that one by the way.

    I’ve got two issues at this point though:
    1: my PNP wont “do the job” on the whole surface, i was anal with the ironing but still it gave me semi-crap resuts – please explain this part of the tutorial in greater detail….
    2: My etching got pretty f’d up. My guess that the reasons of failiure is
    a) to exposed to the acid mix.
    b) Bad P’N'P-mask (see above)

    Please get back to me.
    Epic DIY Love,
    Chrstian from Sweden

    July 31, 2010 @ 5:40 PM
  • Comment by Preston
  • Hello Christian-

    Make sure you are removing any bubbles when first ironing the PnP onto the enclosure. The black parts where there is toner will start to stick to the enclosure pretty quickly, so it’s best to push the air bubbles to any blue parts of the transfer, or ideally out from under the transfer entirely.

    As to your second problem, it all depends on how long you exposed, what temperature, and the detail of the transfer. If you have fine detail, you’ll want to expose for short amounts of time, rinse, and repeat. Remember, if the acid bath is warm enough (for instance, if you’re doing outside on a summer day), it will become more active, and therefore less controllable. If you find you’re still losing too much detail, try using enamel paint (or even nail polish) to thicken up the mask in parts you find are being destroyed.

    Hope that helps you out in some way. Best of luck!

    -Preston

    August 23, 2010 @ 5:01 PM
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